Moths and butterflies may spend the winter in any
stage of their lives. Bagworms hibernate as eggs. The eggs are in cocoon-like
silken bags about two inches long, hung from the tips of branches. Gypsy moths
winter as eggs attached in masses to a piece of wood and covered with scales
from the female's body. Viceroy butterflies winter as caterpillars
inside a nest made of a rolled leaf fastened to a twig. The caterpillars of the
Baltimore butterfly spin a silken tent on top of their food plant
and pass the winter within it. The cattail moth winters as a caterpillar inside
cattail stalks. The codling caterpillar burrows into an apple, and the corn
borer caterpillar spends the winter burrowed into an old cornstalk.
Pupae are well protected from winter cold by silken cocoons
or hard, thick cases. The cecropia, promethea, and polyphemus moths winter in
their cocoons. The red admiral butterfly hibernates as an adult in
hollow logs. The adult mourning cloak butterfly seeks any shelter
available. Although the majority of these insects pass the winter in a
resting state, some migrate southward. Great numbers of monarch butterflies
are seen flying in the autumn. Some scientists believe that these are dispersal
movements or simply a scattering of large populations. There is little evidence
of a return flight to the north, except possibly by a few battered individuals.
The next year's population is built up chiefly by monarchs that remained in the
northern climate through the winter.Butterflies and Moths as a Hobby
Making a collection of butterflies and moths,
carefully mounted and accurately labeled, is a fine hobby. It is interesting
to raise these insects from eggs and observe their life history. The abundant
monarch butterfly is a good species to start with. Any weedy field
with milkweed growing in it is a good place to find eggs and caterpillars. They
are to be found on the underside of the leaves.
Do not disturb the eggs or the caterpillar, but pick the
plant to which they are attached. Place the plant in a can filled with water to
keep the milkweed fresh. Wire such as florists use will hold the weed upright.
As the milkweed begins to wither, replace it with a fresh leafy stalk, and let
the caterpillar crawl onto it. Monarchs will not eat anything but milkweed, so
do not experiment with some other plant. After five molts the caterpillar reaches a length of about
2 inches and is ready to pupate. Care must be taken to prevent its escape. In
nature it will leave the milkweed and crawl to some high support. Strip off the
lower leaves of the plant so that they do not form a bridge across the can. The
can and the plant also may be covered with a wire screen. On a rib or stem of the plant or on the screen itself, the
caterpillar begins to spin its silk button. Through a magnifying glass the silk
can be seen issuing from spinnerets in the head. When the button is completed,
the caterpillar turns around, attaches the hooks at the end of its body to the
silk, and then gradually releases its hold until it is hanging free, upside
down. Several hours elapse. When the long antennae at the head end become limp
and shriveled, the caterpillar is ready to turn into a pupa. Some time before
the old skin is ready to split open, the caterpillar begins to swing and jerk.
Suddenly at the top of the head the skin opens, and with thrashing movements the
insect rolls it up toward the silk button. What is revealed is a beautiful case
of jade green studded with golden dots. The pupa case twitches for about two
hours, meanwhile shrinking in size. Finally it becomes still. Pupation is
completed. In about two weeks the pupa begins to turn dark. When it is
black and transparent, the case opens and the butterfly pulls
itself free. For breeding monarchs, the adult must be confined to a cage and
provided with a mate. It must have sugared water for nourishment and more
milkweed on which the female may lay its eggs. If set free, it can migrate,
perhaps thousands of miles, with others of its kind.
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